Avoiding Common Mistakes

Now that we've covered the basics, it’s a good time to look at some of the more common mistakes and pitfalls that are made in the field of photography. Once a new photographer knows what these are, they can much more easily determine how to correct or avoid them.

At this point, you might have already become aware of some of these problem areas, in which case this lesson will give you the chance to refresh your memory. By observing and considering the causes and results of each of these common pitfalls, the more easily they will remain fresh in your mind so that you can confidently avoid them and move forward into the real world with your newfound knowledge ready to be put to use.

CAMERA SHAKE/BLUR

Camera shake (or blur) is something that happens when you inadvertently move your camera while the image is being exposed (when the shutter is open and film or sensor exposed).

You can tell that a camera shook while the picture was being taken because you will see lines, flickers, streaks of light and even ghost-like images on the picture.

This is almost always accidental and the results are not generally considered to have had a positive effect on the photo.

You may come across photographs in which there is camera blur that was done on purpose; this kind of blur is a completely different type – it’s an intentional effect that is done to create interesting and appealing images.

The intentional use of motion blur in photographs varies in type and extent depending on the photograph and the effect the photographer wishes to achieve.

Camera Shake or Poor Focus?

Poor focus can be confused with camera shake, but they are two different things. They can be told apart, however, as the types of blur they create are different.

Poor focus can be identified by the fact that some parts of the image will be quite sharp and crisp, while others are blurred.

Also, if focus is the issue you might notice that the blur is less distinct than it is with camera shake, but rather soft and diffused.

Variations

There are many different forms of camera shake. Some photos might end up with a large blur covering their entire image – not just the subject but the foreground and background as well.

Other times camera shake might cause a double image effect, as though two exposures were taken on the same frame of film and overlaid each other.

So, depending on the purpose of the photograph and what you hope to achieve, there are certain circumstances in which this effect can be intentionally used in a positive way.

Lens Change

Keep in mind that trying to get a good, sharp image with a zoom lens can be tricky – the more you zoom in, the higher the risk of camera shake.

One option is to switch to a wide-angle lens instead.

With a wide-angle lens, you won’t need to use as fast a shutter speed; this can work to your advantage, particularly combined with other effects and aspects within your image.

Tripod and support

Remember that you will need the assistance of a tripod for support any time you’re using a zoom lens, a slower shutter speed, or longer exposures.

Using a tripod will help to prevent (or at least lower!) the risk of camera shake – this is particularly the case when you are doing night photography.

If you find yourself without a tripod, try putting your camera directly on the floor for support – although this may prevent you from getting the angle and viewpoint you were planning for, so this can be an undesired restriction and a tripod provides much more flexibility.

If simply holding your camera in your hands, keep your elbows pressed tightly against your body for stability and support.

EXPOSURE

Underexposure

(Dark pictures)

When the film or image sensor doesn’t receive enough light, the resulting images come out dark – and this is termed underexposure.

Exposure Compensation

Some cameras will have a setting for EV +/- (exposure Value) which can be used to increase the light in your image - this will allow you correct the underexposure by brightening the picture by using the the plus (+) exposure compensation (EV).

Aperture

One cause of underexposure is having the lens opening set too small – this restricts the amount of light being let into the camera. By using a lower f-number you can widen the aperture, thus exposing your shot to more light.

Shutter Speed

Lowering your shutter speed also lets more light into your camera and increases the exposure. Unless you are shooting fast-action sports or other kinds of action shots, this may be a good option for getting more light into your pictures.

ISO

You can reduce the amount of light needed to get the shot you want by adjusting the ISO to increase the sensitivity of the sensor.

Overexposure

(Light Pictures)

The opposite of underexposure, where there’s not enough light, is overexposure where there’s too much. This results in pale, washed-out images.

Exposure Compensation

The EV+/- (exposure value/compensation) setting on your camera, if that’s available to you, can be used to darken an overexposed image. Use the minus (-) exposure compensation (EV) adjustment.

Aperture

One way to adjust the amount of light entering the camera is to reduce the aperture. Use a higher f-number to make the aperture size smaller – but keep in mind that this will also change your DoF as well as your exposure.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is another factor influencing a photo’s exposure. Consider increasing the shutter speed to reduce the amount of light in an image.

ISO

ISO impacts the amount of light needed by controlling the sensitivity of the sensor – so if your images are overexposed you can lower the ISO in order to increase how much light is needed to achieve the correct level.

LENS FLARE

Lens Flare

What is lens flare?

Lens flare is an unexpected streak or patch of bright light appearing in your image. This is usually due to a direct light source reflecting off the lens.

From a technical perspective, lens flare is the result of light within the components of the lens system being refracted and reflected, and being captured by a photograph.

When a bright light source hits the camera lens and refracts – straying from the intended path and scattering or bouncing within the elements of the lens – before it reaches the film or sensor where the effect is captured.

No one particular light source is the culprit of lens flare – it might be bright sunlight, the full moon or even artificial indoor lighting that causes it.

Reduce Lens Flare Using These Tips

There is no way to guaranteed way to prevent lens flare, there are helpful techniques that can be followed to reduce the likelihood or the intensity of the flare effect:

• Altering your lens

• Use a Lens Hood

• Strong use of composition

• Specialist Filters

Altering your lens

The type of lens you use will make a difference. Certain types of lenses are more prone to lens flare than others. For example, instead of zoom lenses try using prime lenses and wide angle lenses, as they have a lower likelihood of lens flare.

Zoom lenses are more prone to lens flare because their functionality causes them to have more internal surfaces and reflective parts than other types of lenses. Also, a sufficiently-sized lens hood can go a long way toward shielding images from lens flare, but due to the variety of focal lengths on a zoom lens the hood isn’t able to do this job properly. Comparatively, the design of wide angle lenses provides greater protection from bright light sources and the resulting lens flare.

Use a Lens Hood

One option is a larger lens hood. They will offer additional protection from light, but keep in mind that used without sufficient care they can also block light from your image, and dim the end result.

Overall, lens hoods can be a useful tool to have in your camera bag – they protect the front of the lens itself as well as providing some protection against the effects of lens flare.

Strong use of composition

The simplest and most basic way to control your light sources and protect against lens flare - the one needing no additional tools or equipment - is through control of the position from which you shoot and the angles in which you point your camera.

Changing the position from which you photograph, seeking to ensure a balance between light and shadow, can be a game-changer. Use the environment, the subject and surroundings – such as the leaves and branches of a tree - to diffuse strong bright light or block direct light sources that might otherwise be likely to create streaks, patches or flares of light in your image.

Specialist Filters

The use of filters takes knowledge and care, as some add more reflective surfaces and thus can actually increase the likelihood or severity of flares. There’s no way to completely prevent lens flare, but the good-quality anti-reflective coatings on some lens filters can definitely be of assistance.

Manipulate Positioning to Protect Against Flare

When you can, shifting so that the light source you are concerned about is behind you, so it can’t hit your lens directly.

Another option is to include the lens flare as a planned, integral part of your scene.

For example, in the image above, the way the subject is placed in front of the light source, partially blocking and concealing it, gives the image a drama and impact it would not have otherwise.

RED-EYE

How to Prevent Red-Eye

When the light of the camera bounces off the back of the eye, the resulting effect is what we call “red eye.”

Use red eye reduction

The first thing to check is whether your camera has built-in red-eye reduction, as some do. This is a feature that emits flashes of light to make the pupil contract, so the camera’s light can’t reach the back of the eye and red-eye is avoided.

Use bounced flash

Make sure that only diffuse light is aimed at your subject’s face. Change the direction of the flash, or use a reflector to bounce the light into the scene instead of shining it directly toward the subject.

Post editing removal

Removing red eye in post editing is always an option. Built-in red eye removal and color correction are available built in to most post editing software packages.

REFLECTIONS

Negative (Unwanted) Reflections

Images can be ruined by unwanted, negative reflections, many of which go completely unnoticed until the images are printed.

Reducing Negative Reflections

• Composition - Adjust the position from which you photograph

• Water or glass reflections - A polarizing filter can be of assistance with these

• Lens flare – Avoid unwanted flare by shielding the lens with a lens hood

• Flash – Avoid using a flash if you find it’s creating negative reflections

DUST & CLEANING

Dust Particles

Dust, like dirt, sand, or any other gritty substance - can be a source of significant problems for our cameras, and as a result for us as well. For this reason it’s vital to protect our cameras as well as we can and prevent any issues from cropping up.

Dust is everywhere, whether we perceive it or not. Dust can get on and into all the fragile parts of your camera such as the mirror, view finder, and lens, but the most damaging is when it gets into your sensor. We don't live in a world where there is no dust, so we have to do our best to ensure our equipment is clean.

Sensor Dust

Sensor dust isn’t uncommon, particularly when lenses are being changed out on a regular basis.

It appears as small blurry dots – and the giveaway that it’s dust is that they will appear in the same place in every photo. This can be incredibly frustrating, as well as reducing the quality of your images.

One interesting fact about this is that the dots you are seeing are not actually the dust itself – but rather the shadows that the dust particles cast.

Preventative Measures

Preventing a problem is always preferable to fixing one after the fact, so set your sights on developing good habits from the beginning:

• Always change SLR lenses with the camera facing down toward the ground.

• Try to change lenses in as clean and dust-free an environment as possible, to limit the chance of dust making its way to your sensor filters.

• Anywhere that is clearly a busy or dusty location – such as a beach, dusty room or children’s play area – is not a good choice for a lens change, since any of that free-flying dirt or dust could be blown toward you and into your camera.

Cleaning Your Sensor

Cleaning the sensor is a tricky job and can cause damage to the camera if not done correctly.

Many types of camera-cleaning tools are available to help you take good care of your camera, including brushes, swabs, pens, blowers, stamps, and wipes.

Many of these are often combined in a lens or filter cleaning kit, but you can also purchase them individually if you prefer. The most popular are the brushes and stamps. You can buy sensor cleaning equipment online, however this is a particularly delicate job, which may void any repair or service warranty and we would definitely not recommended without experience.

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