Before we get into the details on shutter speed, first let's have a quick look at Exposure.
Exposure is the amount of light that is needed to reach the camera's sensor in order for it to record a well-lit image that displays the details of the subject, as well as providing a full range of contrast and tone.
In a properly exposed photograph there are no areas left in deep shadow that obscures details (underexposure) and no areas receiving so much light that details are washed out (overexposure), which is sometimes called “blowing the highlights.”
However, you can use Exposure to create a dramatic effect or mood that a flat exposure would otherwise not exist.
Shutter speed
The shutter speed is a measure of how quickly the shutter opens and closes, exposing the sensor to the light through the aperture.
This affects the exposure and how well-lit the resulting photo will be.
For example, setting the shutter speed at 1 will open the shutter of the camera for 1 second.
The LCD display on modern cameras can create some confusion. For example, 1/125th of a second is frequently shown on your LCD display as 125 (as shown here in the image) – but the number indicates a fraction of 1, not 125 seconds.
The increments between shutter speeds are twice as large as the one before, so as you increase the speed, you’re halving the amount of light being let into the camera, and when you reduce it you’re doubling the exposure time.
In this chart, the three examples of exposure will each allow the same amount of light into the camera.
By halving one setting and doubling the other, the overall exposure will stay the same: a larger aperture for less time, or more time but a smaller aperture.
When choosing your exposure settings, you'll need to consider the light in your environment (whether natural or artificial), your required depth of field and whether your subject is moving or static. You can then adjust the aperture, shutter speed and ISO accordingly to produce the desired exposure.
Below are 3 Images demonstrating different shutter speeds.
Each shutter speed requires a different aperture and ISO to balance the ensure the correct exposure of the image:
The first image, a long exposure required an aperture of f/22 & and ISO of 50 to ensure the correct exposure at 30+ Seconds.
The second image, an action image of a horse jumping a fence required an aperture of f/11 and an ISO of 400 to ensure the correct exposure at 1/500 second.
The third image of a Bumble Bee in flight required an aperture f/5 and an ISO of 20,000 to ensure the correct exposure at 1/5000 second.
Using the Manual Mode (M) in your camera puts you in complete control of the final image. Don't be afraid of it. When combined with aperture and ISO (film speed) Shutter speed can create beautiful and impactful images.
The automatic setting allows you to let the camera determine, based on how much light is falling on the specialized sensor, what it thinks the best exposure will be for that photograph. It then adjusts the aperture size and shutter speed in order to allow in precisely the right amount of light, thus calculating how to achieve the desired exposure.
However, this does not account for creativity. You will learn so much more by experimenting with each setting and seeing for yourself how each element works.
Get your camera ready, because this is where shutter speeds start to become fun and interesting!
Pay close attention now as we go through each option.
Panning
The term panning means following the subject as it moves.
To pan, use a slow shutter speed, and as the subject moves follow along exactly at their speed, keeping it in the frame of your photograph and pressing the shutter button.
If this is done correctly, you’ll end up with an image in which the subject is sharp, with no movement blur, but the area around them will be blurry and show evidence of motion.
Fixed Point Shots
Another way to create movement in a shot by using shutter speed is to keep the camera fixed while the subject is moving. Select a show shutter speed, and remain still while pressing the button.
In this case, the moving subject will have speed lines or blur, but the background will be in sharp focus.
Eliminating Unwanted Subjects
Longer exposures can eliminate unwanted subjects from the frame. Let's say you're on a busy street or a beach and there are lots of people around, extending the exposure time will eliminate those moving objects as the sensor or film is unable to pick them out. For longer exposures, a Neutral Density (ND) filter may be necessary. It is important to remember that at shutter speeds slower than 1/30, it’s difficult or impossible to hold the camera perfectly still – camera shake is extremely likely and your whole image will end up blurred and messy-looking.
Instead of holding the camera in your hands, use a tripod or utilize your surroundings by resting the camera on a flat surface or propping it against a solid support to keep it in place.
Flash Photography
Basically you can use flash as a way to freeze movement and that’s called Slow Sync flash.
Flash happens very quickly, in just a fraction of a second – so the position of the subject at that moment of flash is the one that the image will capture, regardless of the slowness of the shutter speed.
As you go through each option below, see the various types of special effects the use of different shutter speeds can achieve.
30 seconds and above
Set the shutter to open for 30 seconds or "Bulb" if using a remote trigger and point it at the night sky – this can produce amazing images of stars or the Milky Way as the earth moves in its orbit.
1 - 30 seconds
This setting can create gorgeous effects when shooting landscapes at dusk or dawn, particularly the misty effect of light and water at this time.
Waterfall photography can be tricky – start with 1 second and extend from there. Experiment and see what works!
Observe that for photos such as the one in this example, greater impact can be achieved by shooting at an angle rather than head-on.
1 second
This speed can produce stunning background effects in busy environments with lots of motion – for example a shopping plaza or party.
As a general starting point, try a shutter speed of 1 second and an aperture of approximately f8.
Move the camera around while using flash - the flash will freeze your subject while achieving surreal background effects full of motion.
To learn more, book one of our One-on-One Photography Workshops
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